This article is part of a new collaboration between FT Globetrotter and Nikkei Asia. FT Globetrotter showcases the best journalism from Nikkei Asia writers across cities across the region, starting with Tokyo, Hong Kong and Singapore. You can read more about Nikkei Asia here
Tokyo is a hectic city. With approximately 14 million inhabitants, it is one of the most densely populated urban areas in the world. So as you can imagine, there are many options when it comes to entertainment. But for many of its residents, amusement arcades (called game centers in Japan) are a favorite pastime.
Japanese arcades, commonly known as ge-sen and usually near train stations, the height of fun is mixed with convenience. Game centers first appeared in the 1960s and were located in movie theaters, department stores, and bowling alleys. They became hugely popular – even more so in the late ’70s, when the Japanese shooting game Space Invaders has become a global phenomenon.
Tokyo Joyopolis is the place to be for the latest VR games. . .
. . . while Mikado offers the nostalgic rush of 80s and 90s arcade classics
Games range from solo to group games for friends and usually start at 100 per game. Each center has its own vibe, from those with blaring anime music to older, more understated establishments that still allow smoking now and then. There are centers with the latest virtual reality technology where you can wrestle with zombies, and centers with nostalgic arcade games dating back to the 70s and 80s. Gamers are equally diverse: families, teenagers, young couples on dates, foreigners, contractors (male clerks), the disabled, the elderly – and the list goes on.
Most game centers open around 10am or 11am and you can play until 11pm or midnight (no pre-booking is required). However, children under 16 must be accompanied by an adult after 6 PM and minors cannot enter after 10 PM.
Once inside the game center, convert your notes into coins at the exchange machine, although some newer establishments also accept certain electronic money. If someone is already playing your game of choice, you can scout for other games or wait quietly behind them for you to start. The polite thing to do is play once and then give the waiter his turn. But when it comes to games with prizes, such as claw machines, people tend to play until they win something, so you may be stuck for a while.
Game centers are the perfect place to go if you have time to kill before an appointment or if you want to relax after work – or even for a little fun after dinner. Here’s my pick of the best places to play in Tokyo.
GiGO Akihabara 1
1-10-9 SOTOKANDA, CHIYODA-KU, TOKYO 101-0021
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Good for: Beginners
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Not so good for: Those who don’t like anime or manga
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FOR YOUR INFORMATION: Open from 10am to 11pm and games start at ¥100. There are a few other GiGOs close by too – perfect for a game center crawl
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Website; Travel directions
GiGO Akihabara 1 is one of the few GiGO game centers around Akihabara station
Age Can’t Wither Him: Adventures With The Timeless Super Mario Awaits GiGO Akihabara 1
In the heart of Tokyo, Akihabara, or Akiba, is known as “Electric Town”. Popular with tourists, it is bursting with cheap electronics stores. But Akiba is also synonymous with otaku (geek) culture, and it’s filled with anime shops, “girl cafes” and, of course, game centers.
Most notable are the GiGO game centers around Akihabara station. Formerly run by gaming giant Sega, which has operated them since the early 1990s, the arcades were recently rebranded as GiGO.
All the usual games are here – claw machines, card games, racing games and rhythm games including one of the most popular, Taiko no Tatsujin, which involves a traditional Japanese percussion instrument. The beloved game features a catalog of songs from the latest J-pop to classical music and Disney hits such as “Let It Go”. The goal is to hit the drum accurately as the notes appear on the screen.
Taito Station Fuchu Kururu
floor B1, kururu mall, 1-50 MIYAMACHI, FUCHU, TOKYO 183-0023
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Good for: Parents who want their kids to have a great time
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Not so good for: Those who hate loud, crowded places
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FYI, a smartphone app can be used to summon a shop assistant by scanning the QR code on the gaming machines. Open from 10am to 11pm and games start at ¥100
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Website; Travel directions
This center in a shopping center on the outskirts of Tokyo specializes in one particular game: claw machines. With over 400, it is one of the largest arcades of its type in the world.
Hallway after hall, you’ll see claw machines with prizes ranging from BTS dolls, Minecraft swords, Minion stuffed animals and giant bags of chips to practical products such as frying pans, cooler bags, cell phone chargers and fake security cameras.
If you are struggling to win anything on the claw machines of Taito Station Fuchu Kururu. . .
. . . the staff are happy to share tips for packing, for example, a hug
After marveling at the sheer size of the place, you have to go to the exchange machine as you will need a generous supply of ¥100 coins. Use one of the red cups stacked near you as a makeshift wallet and you’re ready to play.
From my own experience I have learned that perseverance pays off when it comes to claw machines. But if you’re stuck and struggling to find a good strategy, don’t hesitate to ask the staff for help – they are very friendly and will be happy to give you tips on how to score a prize.
Mikado Game Center
4-5-10 TAKADANOBABA, SHINJUKU-KU, TOKYO 169-0075
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Good for: Relive the games from your childhood
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Not so good for: People who don’t like dirty places
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FOR YOUR INFORMATION: It has an extremely large Pop-up Pirate Game, if you want to try your luck. Open on weekends from 10 a.m. to midnight (and on weekdays until 11:30 p.m.). Most games start at ¥50, some at ¥100
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Website; Travel directions
Back to the future: Go to Mikado for old-school video games. . .
. . . in a fitting retro decor
Less than a minute’s walk from Takadanobaba train station is Mikado, a fairly well-known destination among gamers. The place is full of vintage video games from the 80s and 90s, with the upstairs almost entirely taken up by fighting games like Guilty Gear and Street Fighter. There are also shooting games like Dariusrhythm games like Beatmania and good old pinball machines.
This place is a treasure trove of iconic games. Despite the shabbiness and strong smell of cigarettes, it has a mysterious, nostalgic power that makes you want to go back to slip back in time.
Mikado has a relaxed atmosphere and is not too crowded, except when it hosts tournaments, which gather several dozen participants and spectators. Hosting these events, it plays a key role in sustaining Japanese gaming culture and its community. For anyone who likes to play classic games, I can’t think of a better place.
Tokyo Joypolis
floors 3-5, Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 DAIBA, MINATO-KU, TOKYO 135-0091
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Good for: Virtual reality games
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Not so good for: Those prone to motion sickness
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FOR YOUR INFORMATION: Please wear comfortable clothes and shoes that you can move easily in
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Website; Travel directions
Admittedly, this is more of an amusement park with game center qualities. But Joypolis, as the largest indoor theme park in Japan, is the best choice for testing virtual reality games.
The most exciting of these is the Zero Latency VR, a free-roaming multiplayer. It requires a reservation and is a bit on the expensive side, starting at ¥2,200. You choose from five games, including the adrenaline-charged Undead Arenaset in a post-apocalyptic world where players take part in a live TV show that must shoot zombies to survive.
After some instructions you are equipped with a VR headset, headphones, a 5 kg backpack and an equally heavy gun. Once the game starts, there is no turning back. Zombies will come at you relentlessly from all sides, and you’ll find yourself screaming frantically as you try to aim the gun at their heads. After completing the game, I desperately needed a handkerchief to wipe off the sweat.
Other VR experiences at Tokyo Joypolis include the beat saber rhythm game
Tokyo Joypolis is Japan’s largest indoor amusement park
For those looking for less intense options, Joypolis also has more accessible and inexpensive VR shooting games, as well as Beat Saber, a VR rhythm game. Anyone curious about VR gaming or thinking about buying a VR headset may find Joypolis the best place for a trial run.
Tell us about your favorite Tokyo game center in the comments
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