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Video games from the mid 2000s have taken a sweet spot on our timeline. They look old enough to instill a good dose of nostalgia and they have the depth to still be truly captivating even twenty years after their release. This is the main, but certainly not the only reason why I decided to build a retro arcade-style racing game setup rather than a modern sim racing setup.

This project involves purchasing PlayStation 2 (PS2) hardware and software, including a period-correct CRT monitor and steering wheel, to use to play racing games. But the best is the environment I’m building. The console and screen are installed and integrated into a game station that uses a car seat, ultimately creating a deluxe arcade experience.

The main limitation of the project is to keep the budget low, but I also hope to keep the footprint on my floor as small as possible without sacrificing the fun the setup is to use.

I’ve just completed the first operational prototype of this idea and I’d like to share the journey. I’ll walk you through the concept for your entertainment, or in case you’re inspired to do something similar. And if you have any tips for improvements, the comment section is open.

Why an Arcade Setup

“Are you winning?” – Burr the dog. Andrew P. Collins

I mentioned that I personally enjoy PS2 era gaming. But in addition, using decades-old technology is much more family-friendly and a lot cheaper than building a realistic driving simulator with the latest programs and hardware.

My fellow millennials and older Gen Zs may like PlayStation 2’s throwback vibes more than others, but anyone can jump in Need For Speed: Hot Pursuit 2 from 2002 and say, “Yeah, this looks old-fashioned, but it’s still fun.”

When I’m gaming, I just want to run into police cars and skid. Likewise, if I have a gaming rig that takes up a nontrivial amount of square footage, I want my friends and I to be able to hop on this thing for some casual fun without using the patience and skills required for real sim racing.

And that’s what games like Need for speed, test drive, Tokyo Xtreme Racer, and other mainstream titles are very user-friendly. It’s not for nothing that these are the games I grew up with. To me, they feel vague and familiar like your favorite books or an episode of your favorite sitcom do over and over.

Why PlayStation 2

Andrew P. Collins

Besides all the reasons mentioned above, the PS2 was so immensely popular in its prime that fully operational units and a wide range of accessories will still be easy to find in 2022. Plus a huge list of great game titles (driving and otherwise) were released on this platform.

But the biggest reason I’m building my setup around a PS2 again is practicality and resourcefulness: I already had one in my parents’ basement.

Why an old TV

This TV is almost as deep as it is wide. Andrew P. Collins

Without getting into AV science, the practicality is that a PS2 is optimized for the televisions that existed in its heyday. Back then, “flat screen” TVs had evolved beyond a curved face, but they were still giant cathode-ray tube devices for taking pictures.

You can run a PS2 on many modern TVs; I have used a USB powered HDMI adapter with decent results. Although I was able to make the image large and readable, it still feels a bit… off.

The guy who gave this TV away was kind enough to text me a picture of the entrances. Once I realized it had the better inputs of the era (component and S-video), I knew I had to hurry and get it. Note: “High quality” is a relative term here… a modern HDMI connection is of course superior to this old multi-plug tech, but it didn’t exist when PS2 came out. Andrew P. Collins

Again, I don’t understand TV science and experts very well. But to me, the fainter image of an old CRT TV seems more forgiving of a PS2’s pixel limit. So, objectively speaking, the most period-correct PS2 experience could also be the best.

Still, I was wary of putting a giant old-fashioned TV in my house, but one popped up in my local Craigslist Free section that I couldn’t pass up: a 2003 Toshiba (towards the end of the reign of CRT tech), with S-Video and Component inputs (generally the best native connection type on the PS2… we’ll get to that later), and a 20-inch diagonal screen. That’s perfect for sitting close and getting the old look I wanted without taking up too much square footage or needing two people to move around.

Setting up the cockpit

Andrew P. Collins

The only thing that really separates a “driving arcade” from an old TV with PS2 plugged in is the cockpit experience. For that you need a steering wheel controller with pedals and a driver’s seat.

After some research, the Logitec Driving Force EX wheel was my pick as the centerpiece of the man-machine interface here. Based on some old reviews I dug up, this unit offered good control and I really liked the three-spoke look. Unfortunately, the paddle shifters are just buttons on the back of the spokes, and they suck a bit. But this device was one of the better and nicer options on eBay for the price (about $60 shipped), so this is where I start.

As you can see, the setup I created here isn’t particularly elegant or aesthetically pleasing. I especially wanted to make sure the TV and steering wheel I bought actually worked before I focused on building a better seat set. But I also wanted to play around with it a bit, you know, to make sure it’s fun enough to justify building a fancier version.

The Corbeau chair has been in my garage for over a year – a gift from a friend of a friend who had scuttled a project he was going to put them in and who didn’t bother to sell them. Luckily I was in the right place at the right time to take them off his hands!

After a few hours of testing I can confirm that it is is fun and will be a lot more fun with the steering wheel better secured so I don’t lift the dash every time I make a big turn.

A small block of wood angled the pedal set that felt much more comfortable than simply resting it on the floor; I’m going to experiment here with blocks of different shapes to optimize foot positioning.

Component overview

Here’s all the gear I’ve integrated so far:

  • PlayStation 2 (the old and fat, not the later “slim” model)
  • Sony Component Cables
  • 2003 20-inch Toshiba CRT TV
  • Logitec Driving Force EX steering wheel and pedal set
  • Corbeau Baja Low Back Chair
  • Two three-ton jack stands and a wooden plank that form the ‘dashboard’.

Spell

Beyond that stock I tweeted a few weeks ago, I’ve been collecting OutRun 2006 (which is amazing). Next I try to cope juiced, Tokyo Xtreme Racer 3and maybe Midnight Club 3: Dub Edition when they pop up at my new favorite retro game store – that’s “Joe Gamer” in Lagrangeville, New York in case anyone reading this hangs out in the Hudson Valley and likes old games.

The next phase

Bramble is ready to light it, but you may have to do the pedals for her. Andrew P. Collins

Now that I’ve confirmed that all the old PS2 junk I’ve collected actually works and that I still want to build a dedicated game station, my next step is to create a more secure platform where I can mount the wheel and a higher- quality connection from the console to the television.

I’ve already ordered a Sony-branded component cable to replace the original composite cable – that should significantly improve the picture quality. In the meantime, I dig in the raw materials I have behind the house and see if I can make a real steering wheel from scrap wood.

From there I will build out the cockpit to give it a more polished and car-like look. I have a pair of sporty seats from a second generation Mazda RX-7 that I want to use with this setup (as they are blue and match my steering wheel and controller), so I can wait for a final version of the dash until I get it. who can bring in and get the correct readings. I also need a cup holder.

But I think this project is off to a good start. If you have any insight, advice or questions, let’s discuss it in the comments. In the meantime, look for an update to find out how my driving arcade is evolving and how you could replicate it in your own home.